"Great art has dreadful manners." So begins Simon Schama's Art (Vintage). "The hushed reverence of the gallery can fool you... Merciless and wily, the greatest paintings grab you in a headlock, rough up your composure and then proceed in short order to rearrange your sense of reality." Indeed. (The images below were taken on my "retro" iPhone SE during a too-brief tour of the European Galleries at the Romanian National Museum in Bucharest, while in the capital for Fulbright a